Top Facial Waxing Questions Answered

By Holly Hayes

What type of wax is best for facial waxing?

It is important that you always use hard wax for all facial waxing as strip wax can be quiet harsh on the delicate skin. Using a high quality wax is extremely important. Look for waxes that are made with a synthetic resin rather than a pine resin as these are more reliable from batch to batch and also cause less irritation. Also look for a wax that contains Titanium Dioxide as this ingredient actively reduces redness and irritation. Whilst some people will always experience a slight redness after waxing we want to make sure the reactions and irritations are as minimal as possible.

Is there a temperature you should keep your wax for facial waxing at?

No matter what area of the body you are waxing it should always be kept at the same temperature. Wax is more about finding the right consistency rather than a set temperature. Each heater is different so temperature and dial numbers are just a guide, not a rule of thumb. Not to mention waxes behave differently so there really is no blanket rule for all. You should be familiar with the brand of wax you are using and be able to tell if it is at a perfect working temperature just by looking at the consistency. If you are finding that you are having issues with temperature or performance, contact the manufacture and ask them for some extra information on how to best use their product.

What is the best method of applying wax to the face?

While the face is a small section of the body, there are still a few zones within the area that all need to be approached differently, for example; eyebrows. When waxing eyebrows it is imperative that we are able to create neat curve with the wax so we can give our clients the perfect arch they are seeking. For this reason Brow Beater Spatulas are the perfect choice – they are thin and extremely flexible allowing you enough movement when applying the wax. For the upper lip I suggest using a cotton bud. Cotton buds are great because you can roll the tip of the bud upwards from the corner of the lip to the bottom of the nose. By being able to roll the wax on, the layer of wax stays even and in a clean line.

What is a good product to clean skin prior and post wax?

Using Micro Defence Foam at the beginning of the treatment will protect both the client and therapist against germs and viruses, and using it to finish the treatment will ensure no bacteria, or infections can irritate the skin while it is still tender from waxing. Micro Defence is ideal for the face as it contains no alcohol which can sting and does not have a strong smell unlike After Waxing Oil. Finish off with an After Waxing Soothing Lotion; something with a delicious fragrance like Mango and Witch Hazel is a lovely end to a treatment. It will sooth and heal the skin post wax, without leaving it feeling oily or sticky.

Some areas of the face can get irritated by wax, how can I combat this?

Here is where you really need to look at your wax and your technique. There are other factors such as medications, lifestyle, beauty products etc. that can also play a role in how our skin reacts, but often side effects from waxing will be the result of a poor technique or an inferior wax that irritates the skin. If you have a client that is overly sensitive I would always recommend doing a test patch to make sure the wax you are using isn’t going to cause a reaction.

Waxing while Pregnant

Lilliane Caron discusses why waxing while pregnant is completely safe, giving expecting mothers and beauty therapists one less thing to worry about!

Pregnancy is a very exciting time for any mother to be, but it can also be riddled with worries about what’s safe for them and their unborn baby. It is not uncommon for expectant mothers to become over protective and cautious of their bodies; what they put in it, what they put on it, and what they expose it to. While there are many things that should be avoided during pregnancy there are also a few myths thrown in the mix! One being; ‘Waxing is not safe while pregnant.’ Several arguments exist as to whether waxing during pregnancy is safe or not, I am here to tell you it is completely safe!

While there are some products or activities to be careful of while pregnant; waxing is not one of them. Some believe that the ingredients from the wax used in a treatment can be dangerous, but the fact is, the wax is not absorbed into the body and therefore cannot affect an unborn baby.

While waxing is completely safe for both the baby and the mother during pregnancy, there are still a few things woman should be mindful of. During pregnancy there are hormonal changes in the body. Hair can grow thicker, darker and in places it’s never been before. There is increased blood flow, especially in the pubic area which can make the skin feel more sensitive and susceptible to pain, for this reason women may find waxing more painful than it previously was. They also may find that their skin is more likely to get itchy and irritated. In these instances therapists should opt for a premium quality synthetic wax. These waxes are designed to be gentle on the skin and cause less redness and irritation. Generally I advise to never change waxes however if you are not already using a gentle wax in your day to day treatments you really need to make sure you have one on hand when waxing a pregnant client. For Brazilians and small areas it may even be a good idea to stick to using a hard wax only. Hard wax is far gentler on the skin and can be less painful for the client than strip wax. No matter which wax you choose, make sure you always do a test patch first so that you can check for reactions and your client can gauge the pain level. Even if you are treating a regular client, pregnancy can affect the body in mysterious ways, so it’s always best to do a quick test.

Some therapists won’t perform a waxing treatment on anyone in their first trimester and the reason for this is that they have not been trained and do not feel confident, it’s not because it is actually harmful to get waxed within that time frame. I believe this is unnecessary, not only are you sending out a negative association between waxing and pregnancy, but you are also costing yourself many potential clients. It is not uncommon for women to be completely unaware they are even pregnant for 6-8 weeks and carry on living life completely normal!

Some salons are realising the value of pregnant clients to their business and opening boutique salons targeting solely pregnant mums. This is an untouched market with a lot of potential. It’s not only beauty salons that are capitalising on expectant mums either – there’s businesses dedicated to pregnancy yoga, pregnancy massage, pregnancy swimming and aerobics.

As a therapist, the most difficult time to perform a waxing treatment on a pregnant client is when they are close to their due date. Many women will book treatments right before they are due, particularly Brazilians. Not only does being completely hair free down there make them feel clean and comfortable, but it also helps when it comes to post care and recovery.

For heavily pregnant women, trying to conduct at home waxing treatments on their legs or bikini region becomes near impossible! Because Brazilians in particular are very popular in the weeks leading up to birth, therapists need to know how to handle heavily pregnant women. There are particular techniques and positions that need to be used. For example heavily pregnant women cannot lay flat on their back, they need extra support and you need to be able to manoeuvre them properly and as comfortably as possible. Waxing pregnant clients is not something you can bluff your way through, nor should you try. If you are not confident with waxing pregnant clients, look at getting some extra training, trust me, the investment will pay for itself after just a few clients. Half of being a good therapist is educating your clients. Make sure you open the lines of communication and assure them it is completely safe to continue their regular waxing routine while pregnant. Most pregnant women ooze a beautiful healthy pregnancy glow, so why shouldn’t they have beautiful smooth, hair free skin too?

Dip it, dip it good!

Lilliane Caron discusses the controversial topic of double dipping.

To dip or not to dip, that is the question. When the average person thinks of double dipping they picture someone dipping their carrot stick back into the hummus after they have already taken a bite. Now amongst friends and family this may seem like no big deal right, but how would you feel about sharing that one bowl of hummus with countless strangers you have never met? You may be a bit more hesitant to eat the hummus, which is completely understandable!

Double dipping in the waxing industry is much the same; a therapist uses a spatula to apply wax to a client’s skin and then reuses that same spatula after dipping it in the wax pot multiple times. To some this seems perfectly fine; it is thought that the wax is kept at a high enough temperature which kills the bacteria and germs making the process hygienic. However, many therapists believe this is a myth and that double dipping is one of the biggest health risks associated with waxing. Personally I can see where both sides are coming from. I know this article is going to be very controversial but I’m going to play devil’s advocate.

While everyone seems to have their own twist on what is okay and what’s not, one side of the double dipping debate is that it’s fine; “as long as there is no blood drawn” or “on the legs is ok, but not on intimate areas such as Brazilian.” The ‘dip and dispose’ method is shunned by many also because a treatment uses significantly more wooden spatulas, which increases treatment costs, and also results in increased wastage and landfill. Many therapists also prefer to use a metal spatula with strip wax in particular, as they retain heat and reduce pulling on the skin.

With guidelines and regulations differing from council to council and so many personal opinions being spruiked, it’s understandable that there is such confusion about what is right and wrong. I have no doubt that many therapists are completely baffled over this dispute. I have been in the industry for over 35 years (for many of those, I did double dip) and even my opinion has changed a few times on the matter over my waxing career.

Yes it is concerning to think that double dipping could possibly cause the transition of any diseases or bacteria between clients and of course no one agrees with putting the safety of their clients in jeopardy. But let’s back in the old days, wax was recycled which meant melting down your wax (that contains hair, skin particles, sweat and who knows what else) every night, sifting out the hairs and then reusing it the next day. Some therapists to this day still sift their wax. So why the uproar now?

These days consumers in general are much more ‘educated’ and aware of what can harm or affect us. We hear things on the news, we find things on the internet and we actively hunt for information regarding products and procedures. With double dipping being the talk of the town at the moment, let me tell you, many clients are looking out for it! I’ve noticed that some salons are even using the fact that they don’t double dip as a selling point.

Clients judge us from the minute they walk in; our customer service, our personal hygiene, appearance, presentation of the salon and our work station. Of course our technique is just another part of the experience that our clients choose to return for (or not!) With all the negative connotations associated with double dipping these days is it really worth the risk of losing multiple clients based on your hygiene practices alone?

It’s clear that the hygiene standards throughout the world are vast and what some people deem as acceptable is totally unacceptable to others. For example, my local area guidelines state that double dipping is not encouraged (but is not illegal) and if you are to do it “all waxes should be kept undisturbed at a minimum temperature level of 70–80ºC for a minimum of 15 minutes between clients.” I know many people will be mortified at the thought of this.

When you think about it, using cartridges on more than one client is essentially the same as double dipping. Some people believe that when the roller head is applied to the skin and then rolls back through the wax, bacteria and skin particles are being rolled back into the wax cartridge. Refillable cartridges are an extremely economical choice for therapists and are very common. I recommend that the refillable roller head be removed, disinfected after each client, refilled and returned to the warmer for 15 minutes to eliminate any bacteria.

Another controversial subject is gloves. When I first started I never used gloves; I would always disinfect my hands and the only time I would wear gloves, was if I had a cut. I have come across many therapists who still chose not to wear gloves. The one-glove technique is extremely popular in some areas of the world. Many find gloves restricting, especially when they don’t fit properly. They can cause sweating, can rip, get sticky and slow down your treatment, as well as increase your supply costs.

Again, the thought of any therapist not using gloves may seem unacceptable to many but if they are following good hygiene, using hospital grade disinfectant on both them and the client, scrubbing under their nails and doing everything else right, is there really an issue? What concerns me more than anything I’ve mentioned above is that people are so worked up about double dipping but not that there are unlicensed, incompetent therapists out there bruising, drawing blood, damaging skin and traumatizing clients with bad waxes which are turning people away from waxing forever. I’ve been in salons that have wax all over the floor, pot and trolley; trimmed pubic hairs left on the bed and used strips hanging out of the bin! Just because they don’t double dip does not mean they’re even close to maintaining a sanitary salon

In relation to wax becoming contaminated with skin or blood borne viruses from one client to the next, the Health Guidelines for Victoria (Australia) state “There is insufficient evidence to clearly demonstrate the extent of this risk, but it would appear that the risk is low.” Low is good, but low is not 100%, so why would you risk it? Double dipping is against the law in a number of places around the world and completely acceptable in others. Become familiar with your local guidelines. Your personal opinion on the matter and what you do in your salon don’t have to be one and the same. Whether or not you agree that double dipping is unsafe, if it is against your local health regulations it is not worth receiving a hefty fine or losing your cliental over! We should always assume the worst and perform our services responsibly to minimise the risk to our clients and to ourselves.

A Chat With Lilliane Caron

What made you want to be a beauty therapist?

Being a Beauty Therapists opens so many doors; I think a lot of people forget that there is much more to this field than just working in a salon day in, day out. Becoming a Beauty Therapist, for me, has pathed the way for a life changing career. I have experienced so many different aspects of beauty therapy, as have many of my staff. Working in the salon, working in sales, conducting training, public speaking, manufacturing, travelling the world –the list goes on! The possibilities and experiences are endless and I think that is what sparked my passion initially. I also love the level of faith people place in me. There is a personal level of trust between myself and my clients when I am conducting a treatment, they are confident in my technique and experience to provide a safe and comfortable treatment. There is also the trust between my company Caronlab and the customers who trust (and expect) our products to give them the best results every time – there is nothing quite like having the support and trust of so many people to make you want to keep going and be the very best.

What are the most important attributes of a person that you would hire?

The top things I look for in my employees have to be Initiative, a willingness to learn and awareness of others. I have hired many people who before they walked through our doors knew absolutely nothing about wax or waxing. Knowing wax is in no way a pre-requisite that we look for in an employee, but having the enthusiasm to learn and an understanding that learning is continuous is very important! As I travel frequently, I need a team that will use their initiative to make sure everything keeps flowing smoothly while I am away from the office. There are always a million things that need to be done on any one day and I’m very thankful to have great employees that can push themselves to ensure we reach our goals. The most important trait for any employee in my eyes is awareness. It is so important to have people who are aware of others of what is going on around them, who can see when things are tough or stressful and are prepared to put their hand up to help a fellow colleague. These people are passionate not just for their job but for the company as a whole. You cannot realize a dream without a team, so having the right one is extremely important.

Do you have a role model or other sources of inspiration that have helped inspire you during your journey?

My parents would have to be my biggest role models. My mother was an extremely hard worker and had the most dedicated work ethic of anyone I’ve ever known. This has been instilled into me and I strive to be more like her every day. When I believe in something I put everything into it. When I was young my father would always tell my sisters and I not to fight and to be kind to one another. As we grew older so did his lessons and his number one rule for us all was to “surround yourself with young people – they will keep you moving and young at heart.” I love this piece of advice, and it’s very true. Especially in this industry you need to surround yourself with people who keep you young, vibrant and full of energy as it can be quite a demanding role. I also travel regularly to conduct international training and I gain a lot of inspiration here. I am very fortunate to be able to visit other countries and see firsthand not just how the beauty industry works differently but the world – these trips are always eye openers for me. A lot of people think that after this many years you could maybe sit back and enjoy all your hard work, but for me there is always something else to do. We are constantly evolving and taking aspects of the company to a new level. To this day I am still in the office almost every day in a sales capacity, researching, developing and training. I am surrounded by a great team of staff who all have different skills and talents that they bring to the table; I admire and learn from them all each day.

What is your favourite Caronlab product?

It’s no secret that my favourite wax is Brilliance! Brilliance Hard Wax is one of my greatest achievements both personally and for the company; it changed my life. Brilliance took me and my business to a new level. Our ingredients were unlike other waxes on the market as we used synthetic resin. Synthetic resin also known as hydrocarbon resin or polycyclopentadiene is a manmade resin. We are trained to think natural is always better, but when it comes to resin this is not the case. Resin derived from trees are unrefined and can cause allergic reactions and product instability. This is what made Brilliance stand apart it was much safer, more consistent in production batch to batch and easier for the therapist to work with. High quality synthetic resins are easy to colour and fragrance and often appear fresh and clean, hence the creamy white colour of Brilliance! Brilliance quickly became famous for its exceptional flexibility which makes Brazilians and waxing delicate areas so much easier. It will not go brittle or crack on the skin, delivering unrivalled results and giving confidence to even the most inexperienced therapist. This wax was a complete game changer for not only the company, but the beauty industry as a whole and it is my partner in crime when it comes to XXX waxing. Brilliance combined with my unique waxing technique ‘The Butterfly’ and ‘The Secret Garden’ provides exceptional results for both the therapist and the client. Every week I get emails from therapists telling me just how much they love this product and how they as well as their clients can feel the difference.

What advice do you have for students who want to become successful in the industry?

To be successful you need to think it, visualise it, practice it and believe it. Just like with any job you need to start at the bottom and work your way up, this gives you a better understanding and appreciation for when you finally achieve your goals! Nothing good comes easy these days, you have to work for it and then slowly things become easier because you have done the hard yards! Get a casual job or work experience in a salon while you are studying; cleaning, answering phones, working in reception. Practice makes perfect and while it may not all be hands on, any experience is good experience. A good work ethic, dedication and customer service skills can get you a long way in this industry, not just with getting hired but also when it comes to getting regular repeat customers.

If you are looking at opening your own business the key is not to over complicate things. You need to keep it simple and specific to what you know best. This applies for business in general not just with beauty therapy. There is nothing more satisfying than making your dreams happen, but you need to be prepared to work hard. Running your own business is in no way easy – if it was easy everyone would do it!

Should you change your wax?

Lilliane Caron highlights when you should and shouldn’t change your wax.

The key to being a successful and confident therapist is finding what wax suits you. All therapists are different and there is certainly no one size fits all approach when it comes to waxing. If I asked you right now, what is your favourite wax and why? You should be able to answer me within a few seconds. As a therapist, having the right wax is the most important ingredients for any waxing treatment.

Many therapists seem to find it hard to commit to just one brand of wax, and not only that but they have absolutely no idea of what wax they are even using! I have been in salons that have 10 different waxes, from 10 different brands, and all half used. This is not the way to run a business nor is this the way to conduct any kind of treatment. You need to find a hard and strip wax and make a commitment! They will be your partner in crime. Your clients should not see a range of different waxes around your salon and have to play a guessing game in order to find out which brand is being used on them. If you are experiencing difficulty or poor results from your treatment, changing your wax every second week is not going to help, in fact it’s doing you and your clients more harm than good.

Finding the right wax can be life changing, and you will wonder how you ever survived before you found it! I know it can be tempting to opt for a cheaper product, and save a few dollars here and there, but one thing you cannot risk is the quality of your wax. Price should not defer you away from a high quality product. Paying that extra couple of dollars can make all the difference when it comes to securing repeat business and long-term clients. A salon providing high quality treatments, with high quality products can be extremely profitable. One 800g jar of wax can do at least 200 eyebrow waxes. If you charge $20 for a treatment, that is $4000 you have made from a $19.95 wax. A salon using cheap wax may save $5.00 per jar, times that by a carton of wax and you have saved roughly $60. Sure you have saved $60 straight off the bat but if you are using an inferior wax the chances of you even rebooking 200 treatments let alone 100 is not great. Cheap waxes cost more in the long run. The same goes if you are using more product to get the result, you actually have saved nothing and could ultimately lose the customer if you continually send them home with irritated skin and a substandard result. It all comes down to how many clients you have, and how many choose to come back to YOU over any other salon.

A lot of people I talk to (including many trained therapists) believe side effects such as swelling, redness and bruising are normal after waxing. They also think that some hairs cannot be removed due to them being ‘too short.’ Yes there are situations where the hairs may be too short, however most of the time if someone is booking in for a wax, it is because they have adequate hair in the area, why else would they pay for an appointment? If a client is willing to pay to have these hairs removed, it is the therapist’s job to not be lazy and work the area in order to remove as many hairs as possible. This comes down to having a good wax and knowing how to use it. Many waxes cannot be reapplied as the poor quality ingredients irritate the skin. However there are a number of waxes on the market that are gentle and allow you to go over the same area more than once. As a therapist you need to have a relationship with your wax and know how to get the results. As for the irritations and side effects, these are not ‘normal’ and are reactions that are easily avoidable if you are using a good wax with the correct technique. Having so many beauty therapists believing that these side effects are unavoidable is why a lot of therapists and clients are scared of waxing or being waxed. Waxing is not scary, or painful. It is the most effective method of hair removal with results lasting as long as 4 – 6 weeks. Plus, with regular waxing the hair will start to weaken the hair follicle, resulting in less hair growth. We need to educate our clients that waxing does not have to result in pain and nasty side effects.

When you are assessing your wax ask yourself the following; does it grip the hairs? Is the consistency stringy? Does it smell of resin or chemicals? Is it dark and highly perfumed? Does it lift the skin? Does it cause redness and irritation? Does it cause ingrown hairs or pimples? If you answered yes to one or more of these you definitely need to rethink your wax. Inferior waxes cause redness, irritation and ingrowns, not to mention, they do not maintain temperature as well as a top quality wax. Find a pot that is able to maintain the temperature of your wax without burning it.

If your wax is pliable, consistent, nourishing on the skin, has a subtle aroma and, of course, is removing hair properly, there’s no need to change! You have struck gold! If you are using a superior wax with a good reputation and still experience difficulty, don’t jump ship too quickly, it may be your technique. Don’t hesitate to ask the manufacturer. They can provide some tips on the best consistency and technique for using their wax. After all, they know it best!